3 April 2016

Natural dye colourchart

It's sometimes tricky to get a good idea of the range of colours that are available from natural dyes, particularly those natural dyes used by people in medieval Europe. Hence, I've made a list of some of the colours and dyestuffs available in Europe pre-discovery of the New World. Of course, note that not all of these dyestuffs were used (or obtainable) in all European countries historically (or even today!) and the expense of these dyestuffs was also variable.

These are listed by base colour (i.e. the colour obtained from a single dye, without using naturally coloured fibre, without using a colour-modifying mordant such as iron and without overdyeing) unless explicitly stated. At the bottom is a list of mordants and modifiers and a list of natural sheep/wool colours.

Note that many links appear multiple times (as they have multiple dyes mentioned in them) and some dyestuffs appear in multiple places, as it is possible to get multiple colours from them depending on the precise techniques, modifiers and mordants used.

If you have any recommendations for links to add to this list, please do comment. I will update this list periodically.


Red/orange/peachy or browny pinks
Madder (roots of Rubia tinctorum)
  • Jack Haldane of Rug Review writes 'Easy Dyeing, Living Colours' (26th May 1997, via the Wayback Machine, also published in Oriental Rug Review, vol. XIII, no. 3, Feb/Mar 1993). Includes recipe and photographs of madder on wool yarn using a cold vat to get very deep reds.
  • Carolyn Priest-Dorman of A String Geek's Stash writes 'Woad, Weld and Madder Dyes' (10th April 2015). Includes photographs of madder, weld/madder, madder/woad and brazilwood/madder on wool yarn.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon Dye Experiments - Part 2: Reds, Yellows and Browns' (21st April 2009). Includes photographs of various shades of red on wool yarn, achieved with madder and wild madder.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyeing with Madder' (28th August 2009). Includes description of home-growing and harvesting madder, description of creating a madder dyebath and a photograph showing various shades achievable with madder.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon dyes - Madder' (18th July 2011). Includes a brief history, sparse instructions and photographs of madder on wool with an alum mordant, alkaline modifier and an iron modifier.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Mediaeval Dyes' (10th June 2013). Includes a discussion of medieval dyeing and photograph of madder on wool with alum mordant.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Colours of the Romans' (23rd February 2015). Includes photograph of madder, madder overdyed with woad, madder overdyed with orchil, madder overdyed with walnut hulls and walnut hulls overdyed with madder, all on wool.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Reykjahlid antipendium' (17th June 2011). Includes a photograph of madder on wool yarn.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Dye' (9th October 2012). Includes a photograph of madder on wool yarn with an alum mordant.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opum Anglicanum writes 'Taking a long time to dye' (13th September 2013). Includes a photograph of madder on wool yarn with an alum mordant, with and without a walnut overdye.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'More dyeing' (10th September 2013). Includes a photograph of madder on wool yarn and silk thread, both with an alum mordant and the wool also with a tin mordant.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Dyeing day' (17th June 2014). Includes a photograph of madder on wool yarn.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Dyeing again' (1st April 2015). Includes a photograph of madder on wool yarn and wool fabric.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Last dye batch for now' (14th April 2015). Includes a photograph of madder on wool yarn.
  • Isabella Whitworth of Isabella Whitworth: probably more than natural and synthetic dyes, wax, resists, and history writes 'Madder and goats at Leewood' (12th April 2013). Includes several photographs of madder extract on wool fibre.
  • Isabella Whitworth of Isabella Whitworth: probably more than natural and synthetic dyes, wax, resists, and history writes 'Carmarthen, Summer School and Turkey Red' (5th August 2013). Includes several photographs of various shades of madder on yarn and fabric of various fibers.
  • Isabella Whitworth of Isabella Whitworth: probably more than natural and synthetic dyes, wax, resists, and history writes 'Even madder dyeing: Summer School, Carmarthen' (6th August 2013). Includes several photographs of various shades of madder on yarn and fabric of various fibers.
  • Isabella Whitworth of Isabella Whitworth: probably more than natural and synthetic dyes, wax, resists, and history writes 'Day 4 and madder: sorry about the quilts' (8th August 2013). Includes several photographs of various shades of madder on yarn and fabric of various fibers.
  • Isabella Whitworth of Isabella Whitworth: probably more than natural and synthetic dyes, wax, resists, and history writes 'We have Turkey Red' (9th August 2013). Includes several photographs of various shades of madder on yarn and fabric of various fibers.
  • Isabella Whitworth of Isabella Whitworth: probably more than natural and synthetic dyes, wax, resists, and history writes 'Post-madder, madder post and a blue gorilla' (15th August 2013). Includes a photograph of various shades of madder on yarn and fabric of various fibres.
  • Isabella Whitworth of Isabella Whitworth: probably more than natural and synthetic dyes, wax, resists, and history writes 'More-or-less-Ethel and the Mairet madder method' (23rd August 2013). Includes a photograph of a very deep madder red on wool yarn.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Vielä krappia More about madder' (26th July 2007). Includes a photograph of madder on light grey wool yarn.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Krapista About madder' (30th July 2007). Includes a photograph of madder on white and light grey wool yarn with an alum mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Kylmävärjättyjä krappilankoja Cold dyed madder yarns' (6th October 2007). Includes photographs of and a recipe for cold dyeing madder on wool yarn with an alum mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Birch bark dyeing .. and madder Koivunkuorivärjäystä .. ja krappia' (9th April 2008). Includes a photograph of madder on wool with either a birch bark or an alum mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Testing for lightfastness Valonkestotesti' (16th May 2008). Includes a photograph of light-fastness tests on wool yarn dyed with madder with either a birch bark or an alum mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Old madder Vanhaa krappia' (6th July 2008). Includes a photograph of orange-red from madder on wool yarn with an alum mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Bark mordanted madder Kuoripuretettua krappia' (18th December 2009). Includes a photograph of madder on wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant, no mordant, an oak bark mordant or an alder bark mordant.
Wild madder (roots of Rubia peregrina)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon Dye Experiments - Part 2: Reds, Yellows and Browns' (21st April 2009). Includes photographs of various shades of red on wool yarn, achieved with madder and wild madder.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon dyes - Madder' (18th July 2011). Includes a brief history, sparse instructions and photographs of wild madder root and wild madder dried tops on wool.
Lady's bedstraw (roots of Galium verum)
Hedge bedstraw (roots of Galium mollugo)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyeing with Hedge Bedstraw' (1st February 2012). Includes description of dye tests and images of a the range of shades achievable.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyes of the Celts' (2nd May 2012). Includes photograph of hedge bedstraw with and without woad overdye.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Colors from Hedge bedstraw Paimenmataravärit' (23rd May 2010). Includes a photograph of hedge bedstraw on wool yarn mordanted with alum and cream of tartar.
Dyer's woodruff (roots of Asperula tinctoria)

Woodruff (roots of Galium odoratum)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon dyes - Madder' (18th July 2011). Includes photographs of woodruff roots on wool.
Kermes (Kermes vermilio)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Mediaeval Dyes' (10th June 2013). Includes a discussion of medieval dyeing and photograph of kermes on wool with alum mordant.
Lac (Kerria lacca)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'More about extracts' (18th December 2008). Includes a photograph of 'Lac Red' and 'Lac Purple' extracts on alum mordanted wool with no modifier, an acidic modifer, an alkaline modifier, a copper modifier and an iron modifier.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Dyeing again' (1st April 2015). Includes a photograph of lac on wool yarn.
Cochineal (Dactylopius coccus)
Note that cochineal is a New World species; however, the colours it gives are similar to the less easily available Old World scale beetles, lac and kermes.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Cochineal' (3rd July 2009). Includes description of the process and photographs of the early 17th C 'Drebbels' Scarlet' (cochineal plus tin and oxalic acid) on wool plus cochineal with alum mordant or no mordant, with or without an acidic modifier. 
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Reykjahlid antipendium' (17th June 2011). Includes a photograph of cochineal on wool yarn.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Dye' (9th October 2012). Includes a photograph of cochineal on wool yarn with an alum mordant.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opum Anglicanum writes 'Taking a long time to dye' (13th September 2013). Includes a photograph of cochineal on wool yarn with an alum mordant and no modifier, an iron modifier or a tin modifier.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Still dyeing, but I have some news' (20th September 2013). Includes a photograph of cochineal on wool yarn with an alum mordant and no modifier or an iron modifier.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Dyeing day' (17th June 2014). Includes a photograph of cochineal on wool yarn with an iron mordant or an alum mordant, with or without a woad overdye.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Dyeing again' (1st April 2015). Includes a photograph of cochineal on wool fabric and wool yarn.
  • Isabella Whitworth of Isabella Whitworth: probably more than natural and synthetic dyes, wax, resists, and history writes 'Surprised at Leewood: dyeing with cochineal' (1st June 2013). Includes a photograph of cochineal on wool fibre, with or without an acidic modifier.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Cochineal Kokenilli' (13th March 2010). Includes photographs of and recipe for cochineal on wool yarn.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Tinder polypore and cochineal Taulakääpä- ja kokenillivärjäyksiä' (20th December 2012). Includes a photograph of Fomes fomentarius overdyed with cochineal on wool yarn with no mordant or an alum and cream of tartar mordant and with no modifier or an iron modifier.
Brazilwood/sappanwood (heartwood of Caesalpinia spp.)
  • Carolyn Priest-Dorman of A String Geek's Stash writes 'Woad, Weld and Madder Dyes' (10th April 2015). Includes photographs of brazilwood and brazilwood/madder on wool yarn.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'More Extracts' (26th May 2009). Includes description of use of brazilwood extract from the Mulberry Dyer and photograph of brazilwood extract on wool with an alum mordant and no modifier, an acidic modifier, an alkaline modifier and an iron modifier.
  • Lucy Thaylur of Guild of Withie and Woolmongers: Middle Kingdom Textile Artisan Guild writes 'Dyeing with Brazilwood' (21st May 2005). Includes a recipe and an image of brazilwood on wool with an alum mordant.
Sanderswood (wood shavings of Pterocarpus santalinus)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyeing with Wood Shavings' (17th March 2009). Includes description of making a sanderswood dyebath using an alcohol extraction and photographs of reds from sanderswood with no modifier, an acid modifier, an alkaline modifier and an iron modifier.
Buckthorn (bark of Rhamnus spp.)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Buckthorn Bark' (2nd September 2013). Includes sparse instructions for and photographs of buckthorn bark on wool with an alkaline modifier but no mordant.
Birch (bark of Betula spp.)
Goldenrod (flowerheads and leaves of Solidago spp.)
European goldenrod, aka woundwort (Solidago virgaurea) is native to Western Europe. The majority of other Solidago spp. are New Word species. However, all Solidago spp. give similar yellows. Fermenting the bath gives oranges/peaches.
Bloodred webcap fungus (Cortinarius sanguineus)
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Veriseitikkijälkiliemiä' (24th March 2007). Includes a photograph of pinks and peaches achieved with Cortinarius sanguineus on wool yarn with an alum mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Cortinarius dyeing Seitikkivärjäystä' (14th January 2010). Includes a photograph of reds, pinks and peaches achiaved with Cortniarius sanguineus on wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Red for Christmas Joulunpunaista' (22nd December 2011). Includes a photograph of deep red and orange achieved with Cortinarius sanguineus on wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
Red-gilled webcap fungus (cap and stalk of Cortinarius semisanguineus)
  • See pinks, although exhaust baths of this dye give orange/peach.
Misc. webcap fungi (cap and stalk of Cortinarius spp.)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Fungi galore - again' (10th June 2009). Includes photographs of reds, oranges and dusky pinks achieved on wool using Cortinarius spp. with no mordant or an alum mordant and either no modifier, an alkaline modifier or an iron modifier.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Cortinarius dyeing Seitikkivärjäyksiä' (21st January 2008). Includes a photograph of reds and orange-yellow achieved with Cortinarius cinnamaomeus and pink and peach achieved with unknown Cortinarius spp., all on wool yarn with an alum mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Dyeing with Cortinarius malicorius Värjäys tulihelttaseitikillä' (28th March 2013). Includes a photograph of oranges achieved with Cortinarius malicorius on wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Dyeing with Cortinarius purpureus Värjäys hurmeseitikillä' (30th March 2013). Includes a photograph of red and dusky orange from Cornitarius purpureus, aka Cortinarius phoeniceus, on wool yarn with a mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Dyeing with Cortinarius bolaris Värjäys punasuomuseitikillä' (4th April 2013). Includes a photograph of dusky and peachy pinks achieved with Cortinarius bolaris on wool yarn with no mordant, an alum and cream of tartar mordant, an oak bark mordant or a rhubarb leaf mordant.
Hydnellum suaveolens

True orange

As with a pure green, true orange is generally only achievable via overdyeing. For dusky/peachy oranges, see reds.

Weld (leaves of Reseda luteola) overdyed with madder (leaves of Rubia tinctorum)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Colours of the Romans' (23rd February 2015). Includes photograph of weld overdyed with madder on wool.

Yellow

Weld (leaves and/or flower stalks of Reseda luteola)
  • Catherine Ellis of Natural Dye: Experiments and Results on 'Weld (Reseda luteola)' (2nd October 2015). Includes experiments on cotton and linen fabric with different mordants and with woad overdyeing, plus light-fastness tests on cotton. Also, information about growing and harvesting weld.
  • Carolyn Priest-Dorman of A String Geek's Stash writes '"A Grass that Grows in Bologna": Dyeing with Weld' (9th April 2015). Includes history of medieval European weld dyeing, discussions of medieval European weld dyeing techniques, a recipe and images of weld, weld/indigo and weld/madder on wool yarn with an alum mordant.
  • Carolyn Priest-Dorman of A String Geek's Stash writes 'Woad, Weld and Madder Dyes' (10th April 2015). Includes photographs of weld, weld/woad and weld/madder on wool yarn.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon Dye Experiments - Part 2: Reds, Yellows and Browns' (21st April 2009). Includes photographs of yellows on wool, achieved with weld.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon dyes - weld and dyer's broom' (1st August 2011). Includes sparse instructions and photographs of weld on wool with an alum mordant, clubmoss mordant, no mordant, alkaline-modified no mordant, tannin mordant and iron modifier over a variety of mordants.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyes of the Celts' (2nd May 2012). Includes photograph of weld on wool with and without a woad overdye.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Mediaeval Dyes' (10th June 2013). Includes a discussion of medieval dyeing and photograph of weld on wool with alum mordant.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Colours of the Romans' (23rd February 2015). Includes photograph of weld on wool.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Dyeing' (4th September 2013). Includes a photograph of weld on wool yarn with an alum mordant, with or without a tin modifier or a copper modifier.
  • Isabella Whitworth of Isabella Whitworth: probably more than natural and synthetic dyes, wax, resists, and history writes 'Historical Dyeing at Leewood' (25th March 2013). Includes several photographs of weld extract on wool fibre.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Weld experiments Väriresedakokeiluja' (2nd May 2010). Includes a photograph of weld on wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Dyeing with fresh weld Kasvivärjäys tuoreella väriresedalla' (11 September 2010).  Includes a photograph of weld on wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant. 
Dyer's broom, aka dyer's greenweed, woad waxen (leaves of Genista tinctoria)
  • Catherine Ellis of Natural Dye: Experiments and Results writes 'A Lesson about dye plants: Broom' (14th May 2015). Includes experiments with Scotch broom (Cytisus scoparius) and dyer's broom (Genista tinctoria) on cotton and wool with various mordants.
  • Catherine Ellis of Natural Dye: Experiments and Results on 'Weld (Reseda luteola)' (2nd October 2015). Includes light-fastness tests on various yellow natural dyes on cotton, including dyer's broom.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon Dye Experiments - Part 2: Reds, Yellows and Browns' (21st April 2009). Includes photographs of yellows on wool yarn, achieved with dyer's broom.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon dyes - weld and dyer's broom' (1st August 2011). Includes sparse instructions and photographs of dyer's broom on wool with an alum mordant, clubmoss mordant, no mordant, alkaline-modified no mordant, tannin mordant and iron modifier over a variety of mordants.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opum Anglicanum writes 'Taking a long time to dye' (13th September 2013). Includes a photograph of dyer's broom on wool yarn with an alum mordant.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Still dyeing, but I have some news' (20th September 2013). Includes a photograph of dyer's broom on wool fabric with an alum mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Genista tinctoria' (22nd October 2011). Includes a photograph of exceedingly bright yellow achieved with dyer's broom on wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Genista tinctoria Pensasväriherneellä värjääminen' (17th January 2016). Includes a photograph of yellow on wool yarn, achieved with dyer's broom and no mordant or an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
Lichens (crotal/crottles, not orchil lichens)
  • Catherine Ellis of Natural Dye: Experiments and Results writes 'Playing with Dyes', (3rd August 2015). Includes experiments with dyeing using various non-orchil lichens on wool and cotton fabric.
  • Isabella Whitworth of Isabella Whitworth: probably more than natural and synthetic dyes, wax, resists, and history writes 'Talking Orchil' (17th September 2013). Includes a brief history of orchil dyeing and photograph of crotal lichen on wool.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Dyeing with lichens from trees Värjäystä puiden jäkälillä' (8th June 2013). Includes a photograph of pale yellow-browns from crotal lichens on unmordanted wool yarn.
Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria)' (24th August 2012). Includes a brief history of the medieval use of sawwort as a dyestuff, a sparse recipe and a photograph of sawwort on wool with an alum mordant with or without an iron or copper modifier.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Saw-wort Liuskalääte' (26th February 2011). Includes a photograph of sawwort on wool with an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
Dyer's chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria)
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'More dyeing' (10th September 2013). Includes a photograph of chamomile (presumably Anthemis tinctoria) on wool yarn with an alum mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Dyers Chamomille Keltasauramolla värjääminen' (9th January 2016). Includes a photograph of dyer's chamomile on wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
Woad (flowers of Isatis tinctoria)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Wonderful Woad!' (12th October 2014). Includes an image of woad flower yellow on wool with no mordant or an alum mordant, with or without a woad leaf blue overdye.
Saffron (stamens of Crocus sativus)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Colours of the Romans' (23rd February 2015). Includes photograph of saffron on wool.
Onion (skins of Allium cepa cultivars)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Good Old Onion Skins' (12th February 2010). Includes photographs of onion skins on wool with alum or alum and iron mordants and red onion skins on wool with alum mordant with and without an alkaline modifier, alum mordant with iron, no mordant and no mordant with an alkaline modifier. Note that onion skin dye is of very limited light-fastness and thus was likely not used extensively historically.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Reykjahlid antipendium' (17th June 2011). Includes a photograph of marigold (Tagetes spp.) and onion on wool yarn, with and without a woad overdye.
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)


Velvet-top fungus, aka dyer's polypore or dyer's mazegill (Phaeolus schweinitzii)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Fungi galore - again' (10th June 2009). Includes photographs of yellows achieved on wool using Phaeolus schqeinitzii with no mordant or an alum mordant and either no modifier, an alkaline modifier or an iron modifier.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Dyer's Polypore Karhunkääpä' (12th November 2011). Includes a photograph of yellows achieved on wool with Phaeolus schweinitzii.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Dyer's polypores Karhunkääpiä' (1st October 2012).  Includes a photograph of yellows achieved on wool with Phaeolus schweinitzii.
Velvet bolete fungus, aka variegated bolete fungus (Suillus variegatus)
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Mushroom yellow Kangastattikeltaista' (10th October 2011). Includes a photograph of Suillus variegatus on wool yarn mordanted with alum and cream of tartar.
Jersey cow fungus, aka bovine bolete fungus (Suillus bovinus)
Plums and custard, aka red-haired agaric (Tricholomopsis rutilans)


Soft bracket (Leptoporus mollis)
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Three small polypores Kolme pientä kääpää' (20th March 2016). Includes a photograph of Leptoporus mollis on wool with mordanted wool and either no modifier or an alkaline modifier.
Cinnabar polypore (Pycnoporus cinnabarinus)
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Three small polypores Kolme pientä kääpää' (20th March 2016). Includes a photograph of Pycnoporus cinnabarinus on wool with mordanted wool and either no modifier or an alkaline modifier.
Tinder polypore (Fomes fomentarius)
Phellinus conchatus
Rhubarb (leaf and/or root of Rheum rhabarbarum)
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Raparperinjuurikokeilu Rhubarb root experiment' (15th July 2007). Includes photographs of rhubarb roots on wool yarn with an alum mordant and either no modifier (yellow), an alkaline modifier (peach/pink) or an iron modifier (green).
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Rhubarb root dyeing Raparperinjuurella värjäystä' (24th March 2008). Includes a photograph of rhubarb root on wool yarn with an alum mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Rhubarbroots Raparperinjuuria' (27th April 2008). Includes a photograph of rhubarb roots on natural white, natural light grey and natural dark grey wool yarn with an alum mordant or an iron mordant. 
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Rhubarb leaf and tooth fungi Raparperinlehti ja orakkaat' (15th June 2013). Includes a photograph of wool yarn with rhubarb leaf mordant only, resulting in pale yellow.
Fir (needles of Abies spp.)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyes from the Woods' (22nd January 2009). Includes a photograph of yellow on wool yarn, achieved using fir leaves and an alum mordant.
Birch (leaves of Betula spp.)
Apple (leaves of Malus domestica cultivars)
Elm (leaves from Ulmus spp.)
Alder buckthorn (bark and/or leaves of Rhamnus frangula)
Goldenrod (flowerheads and leaves of Solidago spp.)
European goldenrod, aka woundwort (Solidago virgaurea) is native to Western Europe. The majority of other Solidago spp. are New Word species. However, all Solidago spp. give similar yellows.


Persian berries, aka Avignon berries (Rhamnus saxatilis)
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Dyeing' (4th September 2013). Includes a photograph of Persian berries on wool yarn with an alum mordant.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Dyeing day' (17th June 2014). Includes a photograph of Persian berry extract on wool yarn.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Dyeing again' (1st April 2015). Includes a photograph of Persian berries on wool fabric and wool yarn.
Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius)
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Dyeing' (4th September 2013). Includes a photograph of safflower on wool yarn and silk thread with an alum mordant and, for the wool, no modifier or an alkaline modifier.
Cutch (Acacia catechu)
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'More dyeing' (10th September 2013). Includes a photograph of cutch on wool yarn with an alum mordant.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Dyeing again' (1st April 2015). Includes a photograph of cutch on wool yarn.
Brown knapweed (flower stalks of Centaurea jacea)
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Dyeing with Brown Knapweed Kasvivärjäystä ahdekaunokilla' (14th August 2009). Includes a photograph of yellow from knapweed on wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Knapweed season Ahdekaunokkiaika' (9th July 2013). Includes a photograph of pale yellow from knapweed flower stalks on premordanted wool yarn.
Mountain bluet (flower stalks of Centaurea montana)

Yarrow (whole flowering plants of Achillea millefolium)
Celandine (leaves of Celidonium majus)
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Keltamokuvia Celandine pictures' (12th June 2007). Includes a photograph of warm yellow from celandine on wool yarn with no mordant mentioned.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Celandine and Comfrey Keltamoita ja raunioyrttejä' (27th July 2008). Includes a photograph of yellow from celandine on wool yarn with an alum mordant.
Common comfrey (leaves of Symphytum officinale)


Green

Despite the ubiquitousness of green in nature, green is comparatively difficult to achieve with natural dyes and a pure, rich, deep green is generally only achievable with overdyeing.

Mossy/dull/muddy greens

Weld (Reseda luteola), iron modified
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Mediaeval Dyes' (10th June 2013). Includes a discussion of medieval dyeing and photograph of weld on wool with an iron modifier.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyeing greens for South Downs Yarn' (12th May 2015). Includes a photograph of weld with an iron modifier on wool.
Woad (Isatis tinctoria), various mordants and/or modifiers
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyeing with Woad Seeds' (8th August 2009). Includes photograph of ripe woad seeds (Isatis tinctoria) on wool with no mordant or an alum mordant and either no modifier, an alkaline modifier, a copper modifier or an iron modifier - all gave various shades of green.
Dyer's broom (Genista tinctoria), iron modified
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Genista tinctoria Pensasväriherneellä värjääminen' (17th January 2016). Includes a photograph of yellow, achieved with dyer's broom on white or grey wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant and an iron modifier.
Velvet roll-rim fungus, aka velvet-footed pax fungus (Paxillus atrotomentosus, aka Tapinella atrotomentosa)
Orange spine fungus (Hydnellum aurantiacum)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Fungi galore - again' (10th June 2009). Includes photographs of wool dyed with the orange spine fungus, with no mordant or an alum mordant and either no modifier, an alkaline modifier or an iron modifier.
Mealy tooth fungus, aka reddish-brown corky spine fungus (Hydnellum ferrugineum)
Blue-green hydnellum, aka blue spine fungus, blue tooth fungus (Hydnellum caeruleum)
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'More tooth fungi dyeing Siniorakasvärjäystä' (1st November 2007). Includes a photograph of Hydnellum caeruleum on alum mordanted wool yarn, resulting in greens and green-blues.
Hydnellum suaveolens
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Hydnellum suaveolens Tuoksuorakasvärjäystä' (8th February 2008). Includes a photograph of Hydnellum suaveolens on wool yarn with an alum or an iron mordant - unfermented, fresh mushrooms result in a muddy green.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Rhubarb leaf and tooth fungi Raparperinlehti ja orakkaat' (15th June 2013). Includes a photograph of Hydnellum suaveolens with a rhubarb leaf mordant on wool yarn, resulting in a muddy green due to the yellow of the mordant plus the blue of the fungi.
Rhubarb (leaf or root of Rheum rhabarbarum)
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Raparperivärjäystä Dyeing with rhubarb leaves' (5th July 2007). Includes photographs of rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) leaves on wool yarn with natural white and light grey yarn with an alum mordant and no modifier or an iron modifier.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Raparperinjuurikokeilu Rhubarb root experiment' (15th July 2007). Includes photographs of rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) roots on wool yarn with an alum mordant and an iron modifier.
Alder (bark of Alnus glutinosa), iron modified
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Alder Bark Experiments Lepänkuorivärjäyksiä' (21st July 2009). Includes a photograph of alder (Alnus glutinosa) bark on wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant, with an iron modifier

Pure greens

Weld (Reseda luteola), overdyed with woad (leaf of Isatis tinctoria)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Colours of the Romans' (23rd February 2015). Includes photograph of weld overdyed with woad on wool.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyeing greens for South Downs Yarn' (12th May 2015). Includes a photograph of weld overdyed with woad on wool.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Reykjahlid antipendium' (17th June 2011). Includes a photograph of woad over weld on wool yarn.
Weld (Reseda luteola), copper modified
Dyer's broom (Genista tinctoria), overdyed with woad (leaf of Isatis tinctoria)
Saffron (Crocus sativus) overdyed with woad (leaf of Isatis tinctoria)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Colours of the Romans' (23rd February 2015). Includes photograph of saffron yellow overdyed with woad blue, on wool.
Woad (flower of Isatis tinctoria), overdyed with woad (leaf of Isatis tinctoria)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Wonderful Woad!' (12th October 2014). Includes an image of woad flower yellow on wool, overdyed with woad leaf blue.
Marigold (Tagetes spp.), overdyed with woad (leaf of Isatis tinctoria)
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Reykjahlid antipendium' (17th June 2011). Includes a photograph of woad over marigold on wool yarn.
Onion (Alium cepa), overdyed with woad (leaf of Isatis tinctoria)
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Reykjahlid antipendium' (17th June 2011). Includes a photograph of woad over onion on wool yarn. 
Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum), overdyed with indigo (Indigofera tinctoria)
Goldenrod (Solidago spp.), overdyed with indigo (Indigofera tinctoria)
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Memories of late summer Loppukesän värjäysmuistoja' (13th November 2008). Includes a photograph of green on wool yarn from goldenrod with an alum and cream of tartar mordant, overdyed with indigo.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Natural dyeing with goldenrods Kasvivärjäys piiskuilla' (16th October 2010). Includes a photograph of bright green on wool yarn from indigo, then mordanted with alum and cream of tartar, then overdyed with goldenrod.

Blue

Woad (leaves of Isatis tinctoria) - note the dye chemical, indigotin, is the same as in indigo
Indigo (leaves of Indigofera tinctoria) - note the dye chemical, indigotin, is the same as in woad
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Indigo Worshop' (3rd July 2011). Includes photographs of natural indigo, synthetic indigo, woad leaves, woad balls and stored woad solution on wool, cotton and linen.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Making and Using an Indigo Stock Solution' (6th November 2011). Includes instructions for making and using an indigo stock solution plus images of the range of indigo blues achievable.
  • Isabella Whitworth of Isabella Whitworth: probably more than natural and synthetic dyes, wax, resists, and history writes 'Getting to Blue' (13th March 2015). Includes an excellent photo of indigo dye shades, achieved via repeated dipping in the vat to get an increasingly darker colour.
  • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Reykjahlid antipendium' (17th June 2011). Includes a photograph of indigo on wool yarn.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Indigo-fructose vat Indigo-hedelmäsokerikyyppi' (10th June 2011). Includes photographs of and a recipe for indigo on wool yarn.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Indigo-fructose vat Indigo-hedelmäsokerikyyppi' (24th July 2012). Includes a photographs of various shades of indigo on wool yarn, plus recipes.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Colors from last week-end Juhannuksen värjäyksiä' (23rd June 2014). Includes photographs of various shades of indigo on wool yarn.
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Success with indigo fermentation vat Onnistuminen indigon käymiskyypillä' (9th August 2014). Includes photographs and description of recipe for indigo on wool yarn.
Hydnellum suaveolens
Blue-green hydnellum, aka blue spine fungus, blue tooth fungus (Hydnellum caeruleum)
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'More tooth fungi dyeing Siniorakasvärjäystä' (1st November 2007). Includes a photograph of Hydnellum caeruleum on alum mordanted wool yarn, resulting in greens and green-blues.
Scaly tooth fungus (Sarcodon squamosus)
Stinking earthfan fungus, aka fetid false coral fungus (Thelephora palmata)
  • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Telephora palmata blue Löyhkäsilokkasinistä' (2nd December 2014). Includes a photograph of Thelephora palmata on wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
Misc. tooth fungi (mixture of Hydnellum suaveolens, Phellodon niger, Hydnellum aurantiacum and Telephora palmata)

Pink/purple

Orchil (whole plant of Ochrolechia and Umbilicaria spp.)
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon Dye Experiments - Part 3: Blues, Green, Purple, Browns and Black' (28th April 2009). Includes a photograph of pink from Ochrolechea tartarea on wool yarn and fabric.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon dyes - lichen purple' (9th August 2011). Includes recipe and photographs of orchil lichen (Orchrolechia tartarea in this case) on wool using the ammonia method.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyes of the Celts' (2nd May 2012). Includes photograph of orchil on wool with and without vinegar and with and without a woad overdye.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Mediaeval Dyes' (10th June 2013). Includes a discussion of medieval dyeing and photograph of orchil lichen (Orchrolechia tartarea) on wool with no mordant.
  • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Colours of the Romans' (23rd February 2015). Includes photograph of madder overdyed with orchil, walnut hulls overdyed with orchil, orchil overdyed with woad, orchil alone and orchil with vinegar, all on wool.
  • Chris Laning of Ravensgard writes 'Orchil, the poor person's purple' (16th June 1997). Includes a history of orchil and tyrian/murex purple, a historic orchil dye recipe (1540s), description of making an orchil dyebath and a photograph showing orchil on wool, including lack of lightfastness.
  • Isabella Whitworth of Isabella Whitworth: probably more than natural and synthetic dyes, wax, resists, and history writes 'Historical dye studies: Explanation of my work with orchil and the orchil trade' (undated). Includes photographs of orchil on unspecified fabric and a photograph of a 19th Century dyer's sample book.
  • Isabella Whitworth of Isabella Whitworth: probably more than natural and synthetic dyes, wax, resists, and history writes 'Talking Orchil' (17th September 2013). Includes a brief history of orchil dyeing and photograph of orchil on wool.
    Tyrian purple, aka murex purple, aka Imperial purple (hypobrachial gland of Bolinus brandaris, Hexaplex trunculus and other species)

     Historically, Bolinus brandaris (previously called Murex brandaris) was used to create the red-purple dye variously called Tyrian purple, murex purple and/or Imperial purple. Hexaplex trunculus was used to create a related blue-purple dye. More rarely, other related species such as Stramonita haemastoma and Bolinus cornutus have been used.
    • Chris Cooksey of Ancient dyes, natural and synethtic writes 'Tyrian purple' (19th March 2012). Includes a history of and chemistry of Tyrian purple dye.
    • Rita Roberts of Ritarobert's Blog writes 'Murex Shell and the Purple Dye' (27th April 2012). Includes a description of a Minoan dye workshop.
    Kermes (Kermes vermilio), lac (Kerria lacca) and cochineal (Dactylopius coccus)
    • See reds.
    Brazilwood/sappanwood (heartwood of Caesalpinia spp.) and sanderswood (Pterocarpus santalinus)
    • See reds.
    Woad (leaf of Isatis tinctoria, reprocessed)
    Woad (ripe seeds of Isatis tinctoria, with acidic modifier)
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyeing with Woad Seeds' (8th August 2009). Includes photograph of ripe woad seeds on wool with no mordant or an alum mordant and an acidic modifier, resulting in shades of pink.
    Red-gilled webcap fungus (cap and stalk of Cortinarius semisanguineus)
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyeing with Fungi' (2nd January 2009). Includes images of vivid pinks/purples on wool yarn, achieved with Cortinarius semisanguineus with an alum mordant and no modifier, an acidic modifier, an alkaline modifier, a copper modifier and an iron modifier.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'The Last of the Fungi?' (10th February 2009). Includes images of shades of pink and peach achievable with Cortinarius semisanguineus with no mordant and an alum mordant on wool yarn.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'South Downs Yarn & colours from fungi' (3rd February 2016). Includes images of shades of pink and peach achievable with Cortinarius semisanguineus with an alum mordant and alkaline modifier on wool yarn.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Verihelttaliemiä' (24th March 2007). Includes a photograph of pale brown, oranges, pink and peaches achieved with Cortinarius semisanguineus on wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Dyeing with Cortinarius semisanguineus Värjäystä verihelttaseitikillä' (1st December 2007). Includes a photograph of reds, oranges and peaches achieved with Cortinarius semisanguineus on wool yarn with no mordant or an alum mordant.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Cortinarius dyeing Seitikkivärjäystä' (14th January 2010). Includes a photograph of reds, pinks and peaches achiaved with Cortinarius semisanguineus on wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Natural dyeing with Cortinarius semisanguineus caps Sienivärjäystä verihelttaseitikkien lakeilla' (20th October 2010). Includes a photograph of dusky red and peach achieved with dried Cortinarius semisanguineus caps on wool with an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'More Cortinarius dyeing Lisää värjäystä verihelttaseitikeillä' (6th November 2010). Includes a photograph of pinky-red achieved with Cortinarius semisanguineus on wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Red for Christmas Joulunpunaista' (22nd December 2011). Includes a photograph of pink and pinky-red, achieved with Cortinarius semisanguineus on wool yarn.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'More dyeing in the spring Lisää keväisiä värjäyksiä' (11th June 2014). Includes an image of Cortinarius semisanguineus on wool yarn with wool yarn.
    Tender nesting polypore, aka purple dye polypore or cinnamon bracket (bracket of Hapalopilus rutilans)
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'South Downs Yarn & colours from fungi' (3rd February 2016). Includes images of plumy and blue-toned purple on wool yarn with Hapalopilus rutilans  with no mordant or an alum mordant and with or without pH adjustment.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Purple with polypores!! Violettia okrakäävillä!!' (17th April 2008). Includes a photograph of Hapalopilus rutilans on wool yarn with no mordant or an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Three small polypores Kolme pientä kääpää' (20th March 2016). Includes a photograph of Hapalopilus rutilans on wool with mordanted wool and either no modifier or an alkaline modifier.
    Velvet roll-rim fungus, aka velvet-footed pax fungus (Paxillus atrotomentosus, aka Tapinella atrotomentosa)
    Damson (skins of fruit of Prunus domestica subsp. insititia)
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyeing with Damsons' (6th November 2009). Includes brief description and photographs of damson fruit skins on cotton, linen, silk and wool, all with an alum mordant and either no modifier, an acid modifier, an alkaline modifier, a copper modifier or an iron modifier. Jenny notes that the dye was poor and damsons, like other red and purple fruits, make a disappointing and undesirable dyestuff.
    Rhubarb (root of Rheum rhabarbarum)
    Dock (seeds of Rumex obtusifolius)

    Brown

    Walnut (hull of nuts or leaves of Juglans regia (Old-world) or Juglans nigra (New-world))
    • Carolyn Priest-Dorman of A String Geek's Stash writes 'Woad, Weld and Madder Dyes' (10th April 2015). Includes photographs of walnut and walnut/woad on wool yarn.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon Dye Experiments - Part 3: Blues, Green, Purple, Browns and Black' (28th April 2009). Includes a photograph of browns on wool yarn, achieved with walnut leaves and hulls.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Fresh Walnut Hulls' (14th December 2010). Includes as sparse description of and photographs of dyeing with fresh walnut hulls or fresh walnut leaves on wool with no mordant.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Mediaeval Dyes' (10th June 2013). Includes a discussion of medieval dyeing and photograph of walnut hulls on wool with no mordant.
    • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Reykjahlid antipendium' (17th June 2011). Includes a photograph of walnut on wool yarn.
    • Tanya Bentham of Opum Anglicanum writes 'Taking a long time to dye' (13th September 2013). Includes a photograph of walnut on wool yarn with an alum mordant, with and without an iron modifier, plus a walnut overdye over madder with an alum mordant.
    • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Still dyeing, but I have some news' (20th September 2013). Includes a photograph of walnut on wool tape with an alum mordant.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'My walnuts and dyeing with walnut husks Jalopähkinöitäni ja pähkinänkuorivärjäystä' (16th July 2011). Includes a photograph of walnut on wool yarn with no mordant or an alum and cream of tartar mordant, both with an iron modifier.
    Oak (leaves, acorns, galls and/or bark of Quercus spp.)
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyes from the Woods' (22nd January 2009). Includes a photograph of brown from fallen oak leaves on wool with an alum mordant or no mordant.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon colours from oak leaves and acorns' (15th August 2011). Includes photographs of tannin dye from oak leaves or acorns on wool using an alum mordant, clubmoss mordant, alum/clubmoss mordant with an alkaline modifier, no mordant with iron modifier and tannin mordant with iron modifier.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyes of the Celts' (2nd May 2012). Includes photograph of oak bark on wool with and without a woad overdye.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Colours of the Romans' (23rd February 2015). Includes photograph of oak galls on wool.
    Alder (bark and twigs of Alnus glutinosa)
    Mulberry (bark of Morus spp.)
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Mulberry Bark' (30th October 2009). Includes brief description of and a photograph of mulberry bark on wool with no mordant or an alum mordant, with no modifier, an alkaline modifier or an iron modifier.
    Willow (leaves of Salix spp.)
    Spruce (cones of Picea spp.)
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Color from spruce cones Kuusenkäpyväriä' (7th December 2008). Includes a photograph of beige from spruce cones on wool yarn with an alum and cream of tartar mordant.
    Maple (leaves from Acer spp.)
    Larch (bark of Larix spp.)
    Buckthorn (bark of Rhamnus spp.)
    Bramble (leaves of Rubus fruticosus)
    Sage (leaves of Salvia officinalis)
    Bohemian truffle (puffball of Pistolithus tinctorius, aka Pistolithus arhizus)
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Fungi galore - again' (10th June 2009). Includes photographs of browns achieved on wool using Pistolithus tinctorius with no mordant or an alum mordant and either no modifier, an alkaline modifier or an iron modifier.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Pisolithus soup Kuukuskeittoa' (9th September 2008). Includes photographs of browns achieved on wool using Pistolithus arhizus (aka Pistolithus tinctorius) on wool with an alum and cream of tartar mordant with or without an alkaline modifier.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'More Pisolithus yarns Lisää kuukuslankoja' (16th October 2008). Includes a photograph of browns achieved on wool yarn using Pistolithus arhizus and either an alum and cream of tartar or an iron mordant.
    Turkeytail fungus aka many-zoned polypore (bracket of Trametes versicolor)
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'The Last of the Fungi?' (10th February 2009). Includes images of browns achieved with Trametes versicolor on wool yarn with no mordant or an alum mordant.
    Giant club fungus (cap and stalk of Clavariadelphus pistillaris), iron modified
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Fungi in the Garden' (2nd February 2009). Includes photograph of pale browns on wool yarn, achieved with giant club fungus with no mordant or an alum mordant.
    Scaly tooth fungus (Sarcodon squamosus)

    Grey
    Tannins, iron modified
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Dyes from the Woods' (22nd January 2009). Includes a photograph of grey on wool yarn, achieved using fallen oak leaves, no mordant and an iron modifier.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon Dye Experiments - Part 2: Reds, Yellows and Browns' (21st April 2009). Includes photographs of grey on wool yarn, achieved with bramble (Rubus fruticosus) leaves with an iron modifier.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon colours from oak leaves and acorns' (15th August 2011). Includes photographs of tannin dye from oak (Quercus spp.) leaves or acorns on wool using no mordant with iron modifier or a tannin mordant with iron modifier, resulting in medium-grey.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Colours of the Romans' (23rd February 2015). Includes photograph of walnut (Juglans regia) hulls overdyed with woad and oak (Quercus spp.) galls plus iron, both on wool.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Dyeing with birch bark Koivunkuorella värjääminen' (20th February 2016). Includes birch (Betula spp.) bark on wool yarn with no mordant or an alum and cream of tartar mordant and an iron modifier.
    Giant club fungus (cap and stalk of Clavariadelphus pistillaris), iron modified
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Fungi in the Garden' (2nd February 2009). Includes photograph of grey on wool yarn, achieved with giant club fungus with no mordant and an iron modifier.
    Rhubarb (root of Rheum rhabarbarum)

    Black

    A strong, light-fast, pure black is notoriously difficult to achieve with natural dyes and can generally only be achieved with complex and expensive multiple overdyeing. Often, a strong iron modifier is used, which can be damaging to the fibres being dyed.

    Madder (Rubia tinctorum) / weld (Reseda luteola) / woad (Isatis tinctoria), overdyed
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon dyes - woad' (27th August 2011). Includes a photograph of a madder/weld/woad combo on wool, resulting in a surprisingly rich, deep black.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Mediaeval Dyes' (10th June 2013). Includes a discussion of medieval dyeing and photograph of madder/weld/woad combo on wool with alum mordant.
    • Tanya Bentham of Opus Anglicanum writes 'Reykjahlid antipendium' (17th June 2011). Includes a photograph of black from a madder/indigo/weld/walnut combo on wool yarn.
    Tannins, with an iron modifier
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon Dye Experiments - Part 3: Blues, Green, Purple, Browns and Black' (28th April 2009). Includes a photograph of black on wool yarn, achieved using tannin from oak (Quercus spp.) galls, acorns or leaves, alder (Alnus glutinosa) bark and twigs and/or walnut (Juglans regia) leaves and hulls, all with an iron modifier. Note that the black achieved with iron-modified tannins tends to weaken wool fibers due to the high iron content needed.

    Mordants and modifiers

    Mordants act to 'stick' the dyestuff to the fiber being dyed. This is necessary for good levels of colouration with most dyes, although a few dyestuffs (notably, woad/indigo and orchil) do not require a mordant due to their chemistry. Mordants may or may not change the colour of the dye. Typically: alum provides a 'neutral' colour (i.e. least modified); tannins add a brown shade; iron 'saddens' (dulls) the colour, as does copper; tin makes the colour brighter and 'clearer' but tends to harden wool; and chrome (a modern mordant that is also toxic) makes the colour bright and clear and softens wool. Clubmoss (Lycopodium spp.) is a moss that accumulates alum and thus was used instead of mineral alum at varying points in history.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Using Colour Modifiers' (12th December 2008). Includes information about acidic and alkaline modifiers, iron modifiers and copper modifiers.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Alum Mordants' (13th December 2008). Includes recipes for alum mordants for different fibre types.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'More about Mordants: Notes on Alum & Other Mordants' (9th March 2009). Includes information about alum, cream of tartar, washing soda / soda crystals, iron and copper.
    • Jenny Dean of Jenny Dean's Wild Colour writes 'Anglo-Saxon mordants' (12th July 2011). Includes experiments with mineral alum, clubmoss (Lycopodium spp.), tannin mordants (oak galls or bramble leaves and twigs), iron water and wood ash water.
    • Helen of Growing Colour (Tyfu Lliw) writes 'Mordanting' (22nd January 2009). Includes a great deal of information about mordants in general and alum in particular, including advice for use on different fibres and safe use and disposal.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Bark mordanted madder Kuoripuretettua krappia' (18th December 2009). Includes a an oak (Quercus spp.) bark mordant and an alder (Alnus spp.) bark mordant with madder on wool yarn.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Rhubarb leaf and tooth fungi Raparperinlehti ja orakkaat' (15th June 2013). Description of using a rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) leaf mordant with Hydnellum saveolens.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Tannin mordant experiment 1 Tanninipuretuskokeilu 1' (19th April 2015). Description of using grey alder (Alnus incana) bark, willow (Salix spp.) bark, oak (Quercus) bark and oak leaves as tannin mordants.

    Natural sheep colours

    Sheep naturally come in a variety of shades of brown and grey, although white has been selectively bred for since at least the early medieval period due to its ability to be dyed in numerous colours. Most sheep 'black' is a brown-based black that bleaches to brown and then to a brassy shade following excessive light exposure.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Villalangoista About our yarn' (24th March 2007). Includes a photograph of yarn made from Finnsheep that are white, three shades of grey, three shades of brown and black-brown.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Villakiharoita Curly wool' (24th October 2007). Includes a photograph of dark brown, brown-black and black Finnsheep wool that has bleached to pale brown, medium brown and dark brown, respectively, at the tips due to sunlight exposure.
    • Leena Riihelä of Riihivilla, Dyeing with natural dyes writes 'Sheep wool Lampaan villaa' (17th November 2008). Includes a photograph of dark brown Finnsheep that has bleached to a pale brown at the tips due to sunlight exposure.
    • The Shetland Sheep Society writes 'Colours & Markings: Wool Colours in Shetland Sheep' (undated). The Shetland breed of sheep shows one of the widest ranges of colours in a single breed, with eleven recognised main 'whole' colours and more than thirty recognised combinations of colours ('markings'). The colours are: black, dark brown, several shades of grey (emsket, shaela, fawn, grey and light grey), yellow-brown (mioget), red-brown (moorit), pale grey-brown (musket) and white. This pretty much covers the entire spectrum of obtainable sheep colours.
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